Travel advice: Contrasts of Tasty island
Southern Sardinia is a beautiful piece of nature romance. Far from the jetset life north of the island interspersed this small timeless villages with delightful coastal strip. In between are intermingled local winemaker, proud cooks, secret islands and pink flamingos.
The sun sends its rays straight into the emerald green mediterranean sea. But even if the water has exactly the same color as the Caribbean on the Costa Smeralda in northern Sardinia, there is something that distinguishes sites tightened.
The stillness here in the south is a striking contrast to the cheery dolce vita that is lived by overpaid professional football player and media moguls along the Emerald Coast.
The reasons to choose this part of the country of the Mediterranean’s second largest island are many: the sea, the mountains, the food, the wine, the villages and the sympathetic svårcharmade sarderna.
In the lågbevuxna macchia grows myrtle, oleander and juniper bushes. Building Prohibition coasts has created a protected and timeless landscape in this rural, southern Sardinia. Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines and Spaniards are some of the people who conquered the island. Despite this sarderna managed to retain its timeless, a little stubborn specificity.
The seclusion becomes especially clear when we leave the coastal landscape of the inland small communities. Our goal for the evening is Mandas with 2000 inhabitants. At first glance it seems awfully igenbommad village, but soon, the life behind the wooden gates to the inner courtyards and squares. Since 2008, pushing the pair Pasolini a bed and breakfast with six rustic accommodation with twelve beds here in the village. Here awaits a hopefully good night’s sleep but only a late dinner featured on the handwritten menu.
– Right back to the 1300s has been Manda’s been a major granary of crops and vegetables. Too bad we do not have any beans on the menu right now, says Monica Pasolini who runs Antica Casa Pasolini with her husband Dario.
She is proud of the local food. And that instead of an expected restaurant menu dishes create more reminiscent of what here is prepared daily in homes.
– In Manda change we often products and goods, fruit and wine, with each other. In these environmentally conscious times, it is as an eternal food market that never passes the supermarket, says Monica Pasolini and comes in with a bowl of zuppa di verza with rice.
Verza is a kind of savoy cabbage and soup more like the risotto in matighet and saltiness. All topped with local olive oil and grated pecorino.
Inside the terracotta tinted the buildings have original stone picked up while decorated in muted woods with much iron details. The houses have been in the family since the early 1900s but were hunting cabins until 40 years ago.
One of the more famous passengers were Lady Chatterley’s Lover, sorry, author DH Lawrence. Residence in Manda with his wife in 1921, he has described in the travelogue “Sea and Sardinia” and annually awarded a Literature Prize out here in the village to the author’s memory.
Communities Manda and Gergei are good entry points for discovering the hinterland. Nearby are some of Sardinia’s oldest nuraghe, fortification tower built back in the Bronze Age. Gastronomic found one of the region’s best restaurants, S’Apposentu, in the area. Unfortunately, the Michelin-starred chef Roberto Petza away during our visit, but there are also some really nice wineries, which Su Entu and Olianas.
The latter is driven by Toscanabon and vinmaestron Stefano Casadei, who discovered the local Sardinian grapes for more than ten years ago. He runs Olianas as a kind vineyard experiment, with roots rooted in local traditions. Here are grown Vermentino grapes, the white wine has become one of the island’s features.
– Our production is completely biological. We try to be as natural as possible, says site manager Enrico Menicalli and show some hefty hovavtryck in the lime-rich soil. Ignoring the tractor and let the horsepower to work their way through the fields mean Enrico has great advantages: the Earth breathe better, which is good for vinplantornas roots. Get the roots do not breathe does not develop the plant in the best way – and there will be no great wine.
– There is a strong authenticity; in nature, the people, the food. Fantastic scenery interspersed with small beaches along the coasts where nothing is built, and people have not yet tired of tourists, explains Måns Hall estate.
In the evening we go to the island of Sant’Antioco in the south, to take the boat to another island: Isola di San Pietro. The bustling little port of the main town Carloforte meets with outdoor terraces, palm trees and facades of salmon and lion yellow. Around the statue in the Piazza Repubblica playing kids football and dreams into Cagliari’s first team (which has just fallen into B series), while the barber is busy with the curtain at the crowd under the fig trees.
Carloforte also lives in part by tourism but the hotels are few and quite small. The city has a remarkable history. In the mid-1700s moved poor families from Genoa in northern Italy to the island Tabarcha outside Tunisia to fish coral and tuna.
When they later fled the island and was moving north exclaimed Sardinian King Carlo Emanuele III Carloforte to the Ligurian colony. One of these families, who still speak a form of old-Genovese, called Pomella and operates the tavern Da Nicolo:
– Our gastronomic culture is characterized by Tunisia, including the many dishes based on couscous and tuna, says Antonello Pomella and river lemon peel over a spaghetti topped with bottarga-caviar, Sardinian culinary pride.
– We are still a seafaring people, he explains. Four months at sea, two in the country.
Strada Costiera is appointed as one of Sardinia’s most beautiful roads, which not only attracts us. Here we also encounter a test driver of the new car in the hairpin curves between the sparkling sea, greenery and old Catalan towers. On the way to the beach Chia live pink flamingos in the lagoon.
Our final stop is the southern Sardinia’s main city Cagliari, which will soon appear like a vast isthmus. There awaits a bustling port city and incomparable Baroque buildings. But it is worth a separate article.